Is it Ground Hog Day?

Travelling from Bari north to Pescara was a boring journey. It takes a couple of hours and while the train travels up the coast, the view never changes. It’s the ocean on one side an olive groves on the other. However, we had to get to Pescara for a series of tastings so off we went.

 We left Bari in the middle of Carnevale. Hundreds of children were dressed up in beautiful costumes – no simple superman suits here, there were children in fancy silk and satins, a number of Disney characters like Snow White and Cinderella and of course ‘Topolino’, the Italian equivalent to Mickey Mouse. We watched the children for a while, all in the firm grip of their parents, before we moved onto the station.

We arrive in Pescara to find our accommodation is a masseria (a fortified house – a throw back to earlier times when people would need protection) Many masserie have been turned into B&B’s and small hotels. This one was quite interesting, the rooms all had one wall painted with abstract art, the bathrooms were a sort of extension to the room, situated behind a curved wall and without doors. They were quite beautiful in their own way. The staff however, were perhaps not so brilliant. Each morning we were there, breakfast was supposed to start at 8.00am so we could finish and get on the bus for our visits by 9am, but the staff would take their time and it might be 9am by the time they got their act together so we frequently went out with nothing, not even a cup of coffee. This was not good considering we were tasting so much wine!

Anyway, we made the best of it often stopping somewhere along the way to the wineries and picking something up. We had spremuta (fruit juice) instead of coffee and cornetti (Croissants) instead of a full breakfast.

Our first stop was at Casa Vinicola Roxan, a cooperative with over 700 members and 1000 hectares of vines. Cooperatives were quite common in Italy for many years as it meant you could have as little as half a hectare of vines and that was sufficient for you to sell them to the local cooperative as a second income. To some families this was vital. As the wine industry has improved in quality over the last 40 years, number of cooperatives is declining as they find it hard compete in the modern market. The ones still around produce very good wines as they have learnt to adapt often employing consultants and getting the growers to follow guidelines when growing there grapes. They are no longer obliged to take grapes so if the quality isn’t there, they don’t purchase them.

At Roxan we were told the three most important producers in the area were Valentini (the ‘King’ of wine in Abruzzo who passed away last year), Passetti and of course Roxan. Over 80% of producers in the area sell their grapes to the cooperative. Most of the vines grown locally were between 15-18 years old, making them fairly young.

The tasting was being held at the home of a Baron and Baroness. They were an elderly couple, very aristocratic but so nice. Their home was quite opulent with lots of golden fabrics and furnishings. We almost felt like we were intruding but they were lovely and very anxious to please.

The home had been built in the 1700’s. During the height of World War ll the property had been bombed daily as it was used as German headquarters for the area, fortunately it escaped damage. Recent winds however,had taken the tops off a couple of 200 year old pine trees and their nuts were like ammunition as they were hurled at the front door.

The cellar was fascinating, A huge cauldron sat in the middle of the floor and at certain times of the year it was used to cook vin cotto which is used as an ingredient in Puglian dishes. It is also added to wines occasionally to increase the strength.

At the end of the tasting there was a delicious brunch laid out for us, lots of pastries,pizza and locally made Caciocavallo cheese and bread – fortunately none of us were gluten intolerant.

Puglia use to be the doorway to east and also the earliest presence of man can be found there. The It was also the starting point for the Crusades. Most of the olive trees were originally from Israel and the their pips were use as Rosary beads. The pips are always the same size and they used to be used to measure gold – 24 pips = 24 carats = 1 ounce of gold.

We gradually worked our way through another ten wineries over the next couple of days, none of them as interesting as Roxan. On our final day the twins from the wine tourism board told us ‘today you will have a special tasting, ten wineries will get together and you can try all of their wines in one spot. Then, tonight you will have dinner at a special restaurant where they will prepare for you a special meal’. We all thought hooray, we can see all the wineries in one place which should make it a little easier.

We went to the tasting which was held in another stunning Masseria – painted white and very contemporary, and we saw the wineries showing wine at the tasting. They were the same wineries we had just visited over the last three days. Their wines couldn’t have improved in the short space of time so we were very disappointed. Have you ever heard of the film ‘Ground Hog Day’ starring Bill Murray? That’s how we felt – repeating the same thing everyday until we got it right. The twins had not found anybody new.  We did taste the wines but an argument with the twins ensued and we left. We didn’t go to the dinner either, we went and had pizzas in Bari. We discovered it was a 15 course meal and we just couldn’t take it anymore. The tourism twins were using us to make themselves look good. We packed up and headed back to Bari where we were to spend a couple of days in yet another Masseria.

We arrived just as the sun was setting, the Masseria appearing out of the evening mist after a long drive up a private road. It looked like a set for a horror movie. It might have been deserted and was one of the few we had seen that actually looked like a fortress. It was not the most welcoming place. The lights were off and we knocked on the door and called out for about ten minutes. We were just about to give up when a man came from the back of the building, coming towards us looking as if we had just dropped in from out of space. We explained we were a group of wine journalists and we had booked in. He asked us to wait and he went back in the Masseria. Then, the front door opened and a large woman said to come in. She told the man to get our bags and take them to a group of outbuildings nearby. Apparently we were to stay there and not the house.

We were all processed – passports photocopied and forms filled in – and were given keys to our ‘rooms’. The Masseria must be very popular in summer as there was all sorts of sports equipment lying around.  The rooms were very thoroughly depressing, obviously the sports-people that came in summer must have been at the cheaper end of the market. The shower was over the toilet and the basin next to it. The water was freezing, about the same temperature as the rooms. The one lonely light bulb shone bravely but created spooky shadows. They were not the most comfortable rooms.

We met in a kind of pergola in the grounds and discussed our rooms, everybody had experienced the same thing. We went into dinner glad that we only had to stay there the one night.

When we went into the house we were taken to the dining room. Once again it was freezing but there was a fireplace set up for a fire, maybe that would be lit and we would be nice and toasty. Both the man and the woman kept coming into the room but the fire remained a heap of sticks so finally I asked in my best Italian if it could be lit. Bad move! I got a mouthful of moaning and groaning about the cost but a few minutes later they lit the fire.

We were sitting there freezing and feeling a little trapped while the tiny fire flickered in the corner. The woman came in from the kitchen and said there was a telephone call for one of my colleagues. (We had all been sent a list of properties and phone numbers in case our families had an emergency.) It turned out to be Michael’s wife, their 18 year old cat was very ill an she wanted to take it to the vet and have it put down but she wanted to ask him first as he was very fond of the cat.

Michael came back and told us, we were all upset but it turned out to be good luck as it formed the basis of our escape plan. We would say that the call was about a relative who was very sick and we had to leave because Michael had to fly back to the States. So while we waited we went back to our rooms, one at a time, and placed our suitcases back on the bus, the driver then brought the bus close to the front door and then our guide told the lady that we had to leave because of Michaels’s sad story.

The owner agreed and you have never seen people leave a table so quickly. We piled on the bus and drove off straight away to the cries from the woman ‘I still need to be paid!’

Relief! And, you don’t have to worry about the payment, the organiser ended up sending money through to the woman.

Once we were on the bus again, our guide phoned the hotel in Bari where we had stayed at the beginning of the trip and secured new rooms. Unfortunately for us, Bari was now in the middle of a large medical conference and we had to take what rooms they had. I ended up in a room used by the staff next to the kitchens, I heard pots and pans as well as yelling for several hours but at least I was nice and cosy and it was only one night.

The next day we left the hotel for Bari airport for the trip back to Rome and then home. We arrived around 7.00am. Our connecting flights took off from Rome at various times so I was left until last as I was staying on in Rome. One of my colleagues had borrowed a walking stick in Rome and as he was getting a connecting flight to Hong Kong asked me to take the stick back to where it could be shipped back to the owner. My turn to board came and I attempted to take the walking stick. I wasn’t allowed on board because the stick wasn’t mine. I said could it be put in with the baggage and was told no. I then said where would I put it, it had to be taken back to Rome. They capitulated and agreed I could put it with the baggage but they couldn’t guarantee it would make it to Rome, they were right, it had disappeared.

Next: The mafia are getting very close

Italian Traveller: Where's the bus when you need it.

Italian Traveller: Where's the bus when you need it.: So we’re still at the Palace Hotel in Bari and today we have to take a drive into the countryside to see various wineries and the histo...

Where's the bus when you need it.

So we’re still at the Palace Hotel in Bari and today we have to take a drive into the countryside to see various wineries and the historical Castel Del Monte - Castle on the Mount.

Our departure time is 9.00am and we are to assemble at the front of the hotel and wait for the bus. I walk down, it’s about 8.45 am and I am soon joined by two others from the group. The bus comes and we get on board. I put my camera bag, which contains all my money and passport on a seat. I see a news-stand across the road and say to the guys on the bus “I’m just going to pop over and get a magazine, I’ll be right back.”  I took some money out of my wallet and got off the bus.

I walk over the the news-stand and buy my magazine and walk back. The bus has gone, it’s nowhere to be found. I am alone in Bari with a magazine and no money.

For the first time on this trip the whole group was ready on time and even stranger, the bus driver decided to leave early as everyone was on board - except me! While I had walked across the road and purchased my magazine everybody had come downstairs and in the space of a couple of minutes had got on the bus, including a gentleman from some tourist board who was to give us a talk on Castel del Monte on the way. He gave them each a map and told them to open it which they did and so nobody noticed I wasn’t there, the loudest person on the trip, the only female and they didn’t notice.

I looked for the bus thinking that they had moved it just to trick me and I had wandered up several lane ways and streets to no avail, the bus was not there. I was left wondering what to do: (a) I could spend the entire day wandering about Bari but I didn’t have my camera or any money or (b) I could go back to my room and read my magazine and catch up on some rest. I decided to go back to my room and read my magazine and decide later whether I wanted to have a look around or sleep.

So I walked back into the hotel just as the receptionist came looking for me. Apparently they had got out of the city  and realised I wasn’t on the bus, my camera bag was there but I was not. Where had I disappeared to?

Everybody on the bus had opened their maps as the man from the tourist board requested. They were big maps and had to be held with both arms outstretched. When he asked them to put their maps down they realised I was not there.

Frank, my Dutch friend who is totally oblivious to anything except food and wine said he had seen me back at the hotel and then Bill, the New Yorker, said I had got off to buy a magazine. Livia, our guide, then phoned the hotel just as I was walking back in and asked if I was there. The receptionist had seen me come back inside and gave me the phone. Livia asked me if I could catch a taxi and they would wait. I said I couldn’t catch a taxi and they would have to come back and pick me up or leave me at the hotel, I didn’t mind but as I had no money on me and wherever they were was a 20 minute ride away and I could get lost I wasn’t prepared to take the chance or I could stay at the hotel and they could see me when I got back. Fortunately the guys voted to come back and pick me up.

The man from the tourist board had been boring them to death about the ‘golden number’. I never really found out what this was but apparently it was the measurement by which everything in the world can be measured. It is the same distance between your hand and elbow and it is the perfect number. As everybody’s hand to elbow measurement is different I was never able to work it out.

When they arrived back at the hotel I was very angry and asked how could they go off without me. Each one had a different excuse and they were all very solicitous for the rest of the day. But, the guy from the tourist board who had been talking since they left was still going so I had to listen to the end of his speech which made absolutely no sense to me.

Our first stop was the wonderful Castel Del Monte, high on a hill its octagonal walls of blond stone give off the colour of the sun. As sunset draws in the castle turns pink, reflecting the colours of the dying sun. It is a huge edifice, dwarfing everything around it and it has an extremely long path to get up to the small front door, at least it looks small from a distance, as you get up closer it towers above your head.

The castle proved to be very interesting. They didn’t sell any literature at the castle which I felt was a lost opportunity but nevertheless, it was a marvellous experience.

It was originally built in the 13th century and for many years it was thought it had been used as a hunting lodge because it doesn’t have a moat or drawbridge but that is not the case now. There is no proof that Emperor Frederick ever visited the castle let along used it for hunting. It was used at one stage as a prison and after that as a place of refuge during the plague.

It was once highly decorated but over the centuries everything has been removed either by design or theft. It is now bare but this offers a stunning view of the building. Some of the marble was taken to Caserta to be used in the royal palace there and the rest by brigands (as it was explained to us). There are still some traces of the rare red marble on some of the columns and you can still see the outlines of architraves which sit above some of the doors. Legend has it that once in the castle you could only walk in a clockwise direction and that is why the doors are only decorated on one side.

The inner courtyard of this unique castle has long windows which look out on a central courtyard. Having conversations must have been fun because you voice carries as you lean out the windows and speak.

The views are spectacular as you are above everything, this part of Puglia is very flat and the fact that this was built on the only hill in the area makes it even more imposing.

Finally we have had our fill of the castle and we head off to visit the wineries we had on our agenda.

Next: We get on a revolving wheel (metaphorically speaking)

Italian Traveller: A magnificent hotel, pity about the restaurant!

Italian Traveller: A magnificent hotel, pity about the restaurant!: Part of the University of Bari Sunday February 27 in 2000 is a date forever etched into my memory. I was back in Puglia and for the ne...

A magnificent hotel, pity about the restaurant!

Part of the University of Bari

Sunday February 27 in 2000 is a date forever etched into my memory. I was back in Puglia and for the next seven days my life was one comedy act after another – even though I didn’t think so at the time.

We arrived at the Hotel Palace in Bari. We had caught a domestic flight from Rome and the ubiquitous mini bus had picked us up. We all checked in and found we were in one of the better hotels in Bari, the rooms were quite palatial compared to other hotels we had stayed in.

The buildings are absolutely amazing

We were all ready to hit the road and taste some wine at Cantine Coppi. At 5.00pm we left the hotel and headed out. At Cantine Coppi we were met by two young girls, the daughters of the owner – we thought, we never really discovered. They were obviously chosen because of their language skills, the spoke English well enough to be understood and we had an enjoyable tasting with them although back then I wouldn’t have said the wine was the best. In fact we started saying that any wine that didn’t come up to scratch was a ‘coppi-cat’. We confused several people by saying this. These days I can assure you that Cantine Coppi is producing lovely wines that frequently win awards.

We went back to the hotel and got changed for dinner. Oh what fun awaited us as we were lambs going to the slaughter!

Piazza Ferrarese

A restaurant bordering the piazza

The restaurant was at the top of the hotel and we got out of the elevator to a large foyer. There was a room to one side made up for about a dozen people and we thought maybe that was for us. There were seven journalists, Livia our guide, twin sisters from the tourism board and the mayor of Bari had promised to dine with us - for a scruffy bunch of journos, we felt very important.

We soon found out that we were not seated in this nicely decorated room when we were shooed out by an overly enthusiastic waiter who kept yelling at us to leave.  Those of us who understood Italian left immediately but the others didn’t understand what was going on and this infuriated the waiter whose pitch got even louder (if you speak louder they will understand). We had to go back and herd the remaining people out before the guy had apoplexy.

While we were wandering around like lost sheep Livia arrived and following close on her heels the mayor. He spoke to Livia and then shook hands with us all and basically said or inferred that an important person had arrived from Argentina and we were no longer important enough for him and he would be dining with this other person. We were very surprised, not that he wouldn’t dine with us – that we understood – but it was what he said, very, very odd.

At this stage we were all laughing at what had happened and with Livia leading the way walked into the restaurant. There we were introduced the two ladies from the tourism board. Although they were twins, they were not identical so it was quite easy to tell them apart. They sat next to one another and were very friendly.

We were seated and then the menu came out, joy of joys, that night they were having a special degustation of donkey meat. We declined and asked for the normal menus to the utter disgust of the Maitre D. We chose our meals along with Frank, the Dutchman, who went for the degustation. We then saw the wine menu and ordered the wine, specific products that we were all keen to try.

We sat talking until the meals came out, it was an extremely long conversation. Finally they started coming, unfortunately not all of them and in the wrong order. The entrees and mains came out together. Some people got an entree, some people got a main and one person got both at the one time. Some people got entrees they had ordered and some people got completely different meals. One of the waiters was on his mobile phone and just plonked the plate down and walked away so he could finish his conversation.

We tried to call the waiters back but they were successfully ignoring us so we looked for the Maitre D. We saw him on the other side of the room with a mobile phone fixed to each ear. We thought we had entered the filming of some comedy TV show like Candid Camera. It was totally crazy. The Maitre D finally put down one phone and came over. By the time he had got to our table he had finished his conversation and said could he help.

He said the entrees were very similar to what we had ordered an the kitchen must have substituted them for some reason and he was sure we would enjoy them. Franks first course of his degustation arrived at this point and he started eating. We decide to keep the entrees because it was less trouble and we were hungry by this stage. However, the mains had to go back and entrees serve to those people.

Frank’s next course came out and he kept on eating.

We asked where our wine was and a bottle came out and was poured, then the bottle disappeared again.  We were suspicious and asked for the bottle. It was returned and it turned out not to be the wine we had ordered. Once again the ‘kitchen’ had substituted the wine thinking that we wouldn’t notice – they picked the wrong crowd, we knew our wines and we had expected a good wine and we got a terrible wine.

Franks next course came and he continue eating.

By this stage the guys were getting a little touchy, it was no longer fun. Bill, a New Yorker with a short fuse decided he’d had enough and got up and left. He said he had seen a pizzeria near the hotel and if anybody felt like it they could join him.

Franks continued his Donkey degustation without comment.

By this time Bill had disappeared, Aaron was next to follow. Michael then left and Jim joined him. Livia got up and left Frank, the twin sisters from the tourist board and me.

The seafront in Bari

Frank continued to munch away.

I finally said my apologies and left.

Frank kept on eating.

Next:  I get left behind

Italian Traveller: A mass of Marinas - Part 2

Italian Traveller: A mass of Marinas - Part 2: As we travelled further into the Abruzzo countryside we enjoyed the ever-changing scenery, the limestone hills, the hilltop towns and th...

A mass of Marinas - Part 2

As we travelled further into the Abruzzo countryside we enjoyed the ever-changing scenery, the limestone hills, the hilltop towns and the vast area of vineyards along the eastern side of the region.

Our first stop was at the Hotel Villa Majella, a gorgeous four star hotel with views all the way to the Gran Sasso (Big Rock) which appeared quite close it was so large. The Gran Sasso is the highest mountain in the region and it was covered all the way down into the foothills with snow. It was amazing to see the snow on the mountains and then the green of the countryside. The view went on forever.

The hotel was in the town of Guardiagrele in the province of Chieti. It had recently been snowing and it was bitterly cold. After sitting on the bus for more than two hours we wanted to stretch our legs so those of us brave enough to take on the cold weather walked from one end of the town to the other. This took all of about ten minutes. Most of the buildings were quite old but there were some modernish (1950s) apartment blocks. I can’t remember much about the town except the steep drop down from the road into a valley, this allowed great views of the area. The town had a population of around 10,000 and took its name from the watchtower - Guardia. We were lucky to have a hotel with such a high standard in the area which was it seemed entirely rural.

After our arrival and before dinner we fitted in a visit to Azienda Agricola Santoleri owned by Umani Ronchi in Marche. It was their first foray into Abruzzo  Part and they had only just taken over. The manager had set out a ‘few’ pastries for us to try with the wines - in other words in typical Italian fashion the table was loaded. As I said in the previous post, I think we must have been pigs in our last lifetime as we set about demolishing the plates of food but even we could not finish them. I would give you all my tasting notes on the wines but there really isn’t any point because the wines would be long gone by now.

Our return to the hotel saw the evening closing in and the weather turn nasty. After our magnificent evening meal (yes, we were ready to eat again!) we all went to our beds very satisfied and looking forward to the next day. It was one of the best night's sleep I have ever had in Italy - in the countryside with no traffic and pouring with rain and a terrific amount of food in our stomachs .

The next morning saw a very quiet group turn up for breakfast. The rain had cleared overnight and the morning was fresh, some of us had even got up a little early and gone for a walk to clear our heads. The sun was shining and the air was so crisp. I managed to take some photos before we left to go to Fattoria Bruno Nicodemi Dei Colli Venia in the winemaking zone of Teramo or Colline Teramane.

Bruno Nicodemi is now known for making superb Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, a wine often discounted by wine experts - the grape not the brand - but I feel is one of Italy’s best products. Montepulciano is a flavourful red wine that can be enjoyed with a simple pizza, pasta or roasted meats. It is a success story as it is one of the few wines made in Italy where you can’t make a mistake, it’s generally good stuff. Of course there will always be badly made stuff, made with a price in mind but you can still buy Montepulciano d’Abruzzo at a reasonable price.

Montepulciano has little to do with the town of the same name in Tuscany. The grape has been grown in Abruzzo for centuries and it is related to Sangiovese. It is thought that originally someone from Tuscany brought the vine with them to plant in Abruzzo and they may have come from the town of Montepulciano. However, over the centuries the grape has changed finding a new ‘terroir’ and its flavour profile has changed along with it. It is a little more full-bodied than sangiovese, a little less acidic and the colour is richer as well. I think that is why it has done so well in Australia.

Arriving at Bruno Nicodemi we drove through a dramatic path of trees which teased us with glipses of the winery the closer we got.The mag The trimmed pines partnered by olive trees were well looked after and the driveway was more reminiscent of Tuscany rather than Abruzzo. They guided us all the way past the vineyards and a small lake until we reached the end where the whole family came out to meet us. 

The winery is famous for its Trebbiano ‘Bacco’ which contains 15% Chardonnay. A lot of Trebbiano is grown in Abruzzo and most of it is very average wine but Bruno Nicodemi seems to have worked out just exactly what the wine needs. With good acidity and a floral nose with good fruit, it is very enjoyable. It has a persistent green apple finish which goes on and on -  pity the wine isn’t available in Australia.They also make a beautiful Cerasuolo Montepulciano d’Abruzzo. This soft rose wine has a subtle flavour that is perfect for in-between seasons and summer dining.

We left Bruno Nicodemi for Illuminati, another family winery where the family came out to meet us. Illuminati is sold in Australia exclusively through Woolworth’s Dan Murphy stores and selected stores under their other brands BWS and Woolworth’s Liquor. The wines are very good value for money and my personal favourite is Ripparosso, an excellent easy drinking wine made from Montepulciano - the name kind of grabs me - its a ripper rosso!

We were staying for dinner at the winery and so we spent a great deal of time there which was very good for me. When they came out to Australia a few years ago I was a special guest at a lunch for some journalists. The father Dino remembered me and asked that I attend and keep him company. It was wonderful even after all that time.

The property is in Contraguerra and covers 80 hectares with 75 planted with vines. The panoramic views were exceptional and we couldn’t have felt more at home because the family were so nice. This was one visit that I will remember for a long time.

Another visit I will remember because it was so odd was Orlando Contucci. My interest in Italian wines began when I met Robert Gavagna. I was working for an Italian Publication in Sydney and I wrote a story on Gavagan Brothers, a wine importing company run by Robert. He had inherited the company from his father and had run it successfully since the death of his elder brother. I went to work for Robert and his nephew John, who took over when Robert retired, and they were both terrific to work for. 

But getting back to Orlando Contucci, our visit turned out to be very awkward. Marina Orlando Contucci (yes, another Marina) was very abrasive with us. I don’t know whether she was nervous or it was just her manner. She talked about her winery and the history of the company and then she said to us she had lots of importers around the world and then proceeded to list them. When she came to Australia she named Gavagna Brothers as her importer which was news to me, I knew the Gavagna portfolio inside out and in fact, knew all the owners and sales managers of the wineries as well  due to my frequent trips with both Gavagna men and on my own.

When I asked when had she dealt with Gavagna Brothers - it might have been before my time - she said she was exporting at that time. I said politely that she must have the name wrong, it must be another importer but she was adamant. I dropped the matter but when I got home I found she had sent some samples to Gavagna Brothers which had been rejected. It seemed she was right, she had exported 6 whole bottles!

Her property was a great deal larger than Illuminati, it was 850 hectares  and her claim to fame was interesting: her father Corrado Orlando Contucci established the first Italian Embassy in the USA after WWII.

With our last day coming quickly we finally had a free night so what did we do - we went  out and tried some more wine!

We had an 8.30 start on our last day. It was a Saturday and we had three wineries to go to. Casa Vinicola Roxan Soc. Coop. A.r.l., Az Agr Passetti and Az Agr Masciarelli. Of the three, I can only remember Roxan and Masciarelli, I have no notes on Passetti which must mean something.

Our visit to Roxan was surprising as they had decided to host us at the home of one of the co-op members. It was a magnificent house belonging to a barone (baron) and his wife. The rooms were very opulent and the elderly couple were extremely friendly although slightly confused about what was going on. It was a thoroughly enjoyable visit.

By the time we got to Masciarelli it was getting dark so we had a quick look in the cantina (wine cellars) and then we went into the house for dinner where we met his wife Marina - Marina Cvetic. It seemed we could not escape the name.

The wines of Masciarelli were excellent and for quite some time afterward I tried to interest a number of importers to no avail. They still remain without an importer but if you go to Italy or anywhere else where you seem the name, they are worth trying. Gianni Mascerelli passed away several years ago, he was a still a relatively young man (about 45) and his wife now runs the wine business.

Sunday arrived and  most people left for Rome, I on the other hand being a glutton for punishment went to to meet several other journalists arriving in Bari where we had a really entertaining trip which involved eating donkey, the bus leaving without me and a strange castle in the countryside. This is where things went from bad to worse!

 Next: Unforgetable Puglia - again!